Is My Car F'd? - Page 2

blageo23 · 10-14-2005

So today I took a more indepth look at the damage. See for yourself. The main bearing isnt too bad, it has one kinda bad groove. now the rod bearing thats a different story. thats has like a little spot of goodness on it. the rest is peaks and valleys. What would you suggest I do? pull the engine and replace bearings and stuff? Can this be done with the egine in the car. The car isnt coming out til spring so i do have the time. Let me know. also the BS bearing I was talking about turns out to be in the back not the front.

Outlaw1 · 10-14-2005

Was there any machine work done? Who did the actual assembly of the shortblock? You will not get around tearing the ENTIRE engine down and starting from scratch.

blageo23 · 10-14-2005

Had the block hot tanked and honed at kath on rice st. And I did the whole engine buildup.

Outlaw1 · 10-14-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by blageo23

Had the block hot tanked and honed at kath on rice st. And I did the whole engine buildup.

What was the clearance on the mains/rods?

niterydr · 10-14-2005

I would recommend a full tear down. Tough break.

TheBlizzard · 10-15-2005

This is a tech thread, so if you don't have any technical advice then shut the fuck up. If you two want to tug at each other panties do it somewhere else.

As far as your motors goes blageo I think you already know where you stand. You must have messed something up during the rebuild or overlooked something. But in actuality thats how you learn. Its up to you to find out where you messed up and not do it again.

Oh yeah if you do it again, I would stay clear of the Topline rebuild kits. Unless they have done something totally different recently I haven't heard anything good about them.

niterydr · 10-15-2005

Yeah the topline rebuild kit is mostly junk, but I wasn't going to adress that. The "norm" now is to use the cheapest most inferior part available (this is across the import community). Its how companies like ss autochrome and all the other knockoff/bastard companies stay in business.

AJ · 10-15-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBlizzard

This is a tech thread, so if you don't have any technical advice then shut the fuck up. If you two want to tug at each other panties do it somewhere else.

I cleaned some of the garbage out.

Tough break.

blageo23 · 10-15-2005

I actually read into topline on dsmtuner. And like over half the people said it was good and they had no problems. And I figures SBR is a good company from what I have heard so I figured that they wouldnt sell junk.

niterydr · 10-15-2005

Its not nessessarly selling a 'junk' product, to them they are selling something in demand. The topline is good for the money, but compared to bearings I'd recommend, they are junk.

**Goat Blower** · 10-15-2005

They also have a huge problem with oil pumps that seize up after 300 miles or so. That could be what happened here.

Start over, use mostly Mitsu rebuild parts where possible, and make sure you check everything that had oil going through it, including the oil cooler. If you had a external one, throw it away, you can't clean them out enough not to trash a new motor.

blageo23 · 10-15-2005

Ok this time I am going to go with Mitsu pars mostly. My funds are limited tho. Just from reading this what should be replaced? Bearings is a given. And I need new rocker arms and possibly cams.

**JET** · 10-15-2005

You are going to have to spend a lot of time cleaning oil passages too. Check the lifters too if the rocker arms are bad. Hopefully the rods are ok, check for any discoloration and also the wrist pins.

niterydr · 10-17-2005

A must:
-Rod bearings
-Main bearings
-balance shaft bearings (either replace, plug, or what not)
-misc gaskets you'll need after tearing it apart
most likely:
-Oil pump assembly (not just the gears, probably need a front case, check spec)
-turbo
-crank will probably have to be machined
-rods possibly
-cams?
-hla's could just need a clean, oil squirters will need to be cleaned or replaced

Pretty much anything in the oiling system should be inspected for damage.
Mitsu parts we always use:
-Gaskets
-some bearings (if its a performance motor, it'll get kings or acl's)
-oil pump's
-sometimes water pumps
-misc other parts.
Mitsubishi has a very good quality control compared to most "aftermarket" parts companies, and it shows with the consistancy of the parts.

blageo23 · 11-06-2005

Yah this is old but I was doing a search and found a bunch of stuff about the oil pump failing. could that have cause all the chunks of metal? also how do i check if this is my prob?
thanks,
Mike

MustGoFaster · 11-26-2005

Make sure it spins freely, and take it apart. (if you haven't already) The CD you have should have the specs on it.

blageo23 · 03-03-2006

Old Thread Back from the dead...Today I took the engine out and took it all apart. Oil pump to me looked good, crank looks good, bearing are bad. The bearings looked as tho they shrunk. They come right out of where they sit. When I put them in they were tight. any thoughts as to what could have happend?

Pushit2.0 · 03-14-2006

I would think it is ither a oil pump issue, or the bearing clearence is out of spec. I would have the crank checked out. Crank shaft supply, Wagamon Brothers (wags). King bearings would be a good idea along with a line hone with new mitsu main bolts. You might want to check your bearing specs with somthing other than plastic gauge, inside bore micrometer, and a normal micrometer work well.

~John

**JET** · 03-14-2006

I would be kind of leary about the crank. The rod bearings looked really bad. I agree that a line hone should be done as well as the crank polished. I would use King or ACL bearings when u reassemble it.