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fixing pedal-on-carpet shifting
If I could go back in time and give myself this information, I would.
Most information comes with trial-and-error, mostly error.
During this process of trial and error getting the car(s) shifting correctly, If someone had volunteered this information I would have been ecstatic.
So, when all else fails, (AFTER YOU HAVE EXTENDED THE LITTLE BRACKET TO THE END OF THE MASTER CYLINDER ROD) take a M 8x1.25 nut and a M 8x1.25 bolt and weld them together. The end product is an Extended clutch MASTER CYLINDER ROD. NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH A "EXTENDED CLUTCH SLAVE ROD" which is a BANDAID FIX and is ULTIMATELY UNACCEPTABLE.
Explanation: By buying the extended rod, you are not changing how much movement actually happens, the slave cylinder is still moving a small amount, example: your slave is moving from Point A to point B. You need to get to D, so you add the extended clutch slave rod and now you are taking that same movement and going from C to D, when you really need to be moving from A to D. Adding a master cylinder extension rod will allow the pedal assembly (even a worn assy) to properly manipulate the master cylinder, and thus move a larger volume of clutch fluid through the system.
Background: I am personally responsible for 6 (six!) DSMs. So when I find something that works, I usually apply it to all (or most) of them. We recently installed a bunch of SHEP and TRE transmissions along with an array of different clutches and flywheels. At least 3 of the cars were not shifting correctly, because the clutch was not disconnecting from the flywheel.
Due to the unique(Re-F*cking-Tarded) design & geometry of the 1G DSM (and Galant VR4) clutch system, failure will eventually occur.
Failure is when you press the clutch to the floor and the clutch only disengages at the floor. The causes of failure is a combination of the following: (in order, from greatest to least)
-Clutch pedal play
-Leaky Master/slave
-Flexed firewall
-Worn Bushings
On TRE's website, it says "replace any worn component"
Well, easer said then done.
First of all, it is EXTREMELY DIFFICULT to replace the Clutch Pedal Assembly.
Second off, EVEN AFTER I REPLACED EVERY PART WITH NEW MITSUBISHI PARTS, THE PROBLEM REMAINED. I can attribute this with firewall flex.
I am not saying you shouldnt replace the pedal assembly, just that you can get away with not replacing anything. Or if you do replace everything, be prepared to do the rest of this stuff anyways.
The Troubleshooting directions on TREs website are good. But they didnt help me (Read: I didnt read/follow the instructions)
Proper Transmission Install Procedure:
1. Step Flywheel Properly (or just buy an aftermarket one)
2. Install Flywheel
3. Install Clutch (using alignment tool)
4. Grease Input shaft on transmission
5. Grease Clutch Fork pivot points
6. Install Clutch Fork
7. Install TOB with clip
8. Test Fit transmission(completely bolt down)
9. Visually inspect the clutch fork, from your point of view it should be off to the right (Drivers side)(block side). I do not know exactly how far it needs to be, 60/40 should be safe, maybe even 70/30 (you need to take the transmission back off and add washers if you are at 50/50 or less)
10. Bolt up the Slave cylinder
11. Remove the restricter inside the Slave cylinder (makes aftermarket clutches feel feather light!!
12. Bleed the system (on my cars, I installed all new clutch hydrolic parts, so I upgraded to DOT5 brake fluid (purple stuff) It is expensive, but it never brakes down, and it does not absorb water and become spongy. NEVER MIX DOT5 WITH ANY OTHER FLUIDS!!!!
13. after the system is bled (pretty easy) check the engagement point by turning the car on, putting in 1st gear, pulling the e brake and feel where the clutch grips.
ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH:
This should be done by a skinny person, I weigh 230LBS and got it done just fine, you should be OK.
1. Inspect where the pedal assembly connects with the master cylinder
2. if it is near the end already, and the pedal is at the floor, or the clutch is just not disengaging at all, you can just skip right ahead to #4
3. Adjust the bracket out toward the end of the rod, repeat step #13
4. un-bolt the master cylinder from the firewall
5. un-bolt the hard line going along the firewall
6. take the peg out that connects the master cylinder bracket with the pedal assembly
7. pull the master cylinder out, be careful not to kink or damage the hard line
8. Build a Master Cylinder Extension Rod
9. Install the extension on the end of the rod, use the stock jam-nut to keep it in place
10. place the bracket at the minimum setting, closest to the weld
11. Re-install the master cylinder, bolt everything back together.
12. Now, adjusting the engagement point should be easy, take a 13mm wrench to tighten/screw in the rod, do this in increments because backing it out is difficult.
13. You will now be able to feel a "compound bow" effect when you press down the clutch, tough at the top, feather light at the bottom
14. If you press down the clutch and you hear a grinding, you have gone too far, the fingers of the clutch are grinding against the hub of the clutch, adjust it back a bit and you should be fine.
I hope this helps, this is EXACTLY what I would have told myself if I was having trouble, if bleeding and bleeding the clutch was yielding no results.
Thanks to Kyle at MAP for explaining it to me.
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building a 3000GT AWD Turbo.
Last edited by iceminion; 05-07-2008 at 02:38 AM..
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