Post your turbo, timing, fuel and fuel ratio!

[blackrosenova400]

I was told by a gentleman at Map that running 8's with e85 could cause something called spark freeze or cylinder freeze. I dont remeber which one he said. but he said that running too cold of a spark plug may cause detonation.

He said he runs 7's gapped at .22 running 28 psi on his EVO, so I dunno.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Running too cold of a plug can cause misfires and and misfires often show up as knock or cause actually knock.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Usually though, the main reason to not run too cold of a plug is to avoid fouling at part throttle/idle.

[blackrosenova400]

Yeah I knew that, but ive never heard of cylinder or spark freeze, or whatever he said. Do you know what it is? Im think im gonna get 8's and gap then to .020-.022

[blackrosenova400]

Also could you explaine to me the behaviour of having spark plugs gapped too high? Misfire, detonation?

[asshanson]

Also, whats the disadvantage of having them gapped too low? Such as .018 or something.

[blackrosenova400]

I know the higher the cylinder pressure, the harder it is for the plug to fire.

Tv picture tubes are actually in vacuum so it can shoot electrons across the screen. <----- Neat tid bit

I just want to know if it can cause detonation.

[CarPsyco84]

E85
AFR's around 12ish
timing was like 20-22... stock plus 3.
21-22psi.
That seem like alittle much on the timing?

[Tachyon]

E85
14b
20 PSI
~11.5 AFR (petrol scale)
20* of advance @ 6500 RPM

No knock yet!

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Too big of a gap can misfire under boost/hiogh cylinder pressure. Too small of a gap can make idle and part throttle drivability worse.

[blackrosenova400]

Well I put in bpr7es's at .022. No change and pushing coolant in the higher gears at 28 psi.

I guess its time to remove my cometic and put in a composite gasket with some new head studs. Woo hooo

[turbotalon1g]

Plugs aren't gonna change a serious problem like pushing coolant.

[blackrosenova400]

If my pre detonation was causing it then maybe.

What do you guys recoomend for a really good composite head gasket? Or any head gasket that doesnt require an RA of >50

[JET]

Just use a stock Mitsu one.

[Pushit2.0]

9.2:1 compression
47psi gt4202 w/ 1.01 divided housing
BPR8ES @.032
~5 deg timing
12.0:1 AF on C-16
rev limit 9500rpm
Also a leaner cylinder is harder to fire, in addition to pressure and plug indext.

~John

[blackrosenova400]

Ok well I went out and adjusted my base timing to 0 degrees BTDC.

Jeff at Keydiver has my max timing advance to 19-20 degrees.

I think it ran pretty dam good and I dont think it pushed any coolant at all. So either my timing is too high or my head gasket just cant handle the cylinder pressure.

The computer has no idea what the base timing is so if the logger says 19-20 with the base timing of 0, what am I really at?

What am I really at when im at when im at a base of 5 degrees BTDC and logger says 20?

If the computer assumes im at 5 then with my base at 5 my peak is 20

If the computer doesnt assume 5 then with my base at 5 my peak is 25

[JET]

Do you still have stock head bolts in? It sounded like you were talking about putting studs in.

[blackrosenova400]

I was talking about it because I always want to be on the safe side and replace my arp's in case they have stretched.

[Spyderturbo007]

Originally Posted by turbotalon1g

^Um, noob. He started this thread so that he could figure out if his problem was with the tune he did.
He gave us the results.

Yes, I'm a noob and don't know anything.

Sorry, it was an honest mistake. I didn't realize he was the OP.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Originally Posted by blackrosenova400

The computer has no idea what the base timing is so if the logger says 19-20 with the base timing of 0, what am I really at?

What am I really at when im at when im at a base of 5 degrees BTDC and logger says 20?

The computer assumes that the ignition timing that it is trying to run actually is happening. It isn't adding or subtracting any base offsets. In actuallity, when you lock the timing at 5 degrees by grounding it and then set it at 5 degrees with the timing light all you are doing is making sure that what the ECU says it is running actually happens. When you lock the timing, then it locks to 5 degrees in the datalogger also and you just make what happens at the motor match the computer. You could take the whole timing map and set it at 10 degrees or whatever and then hold the rpms at 1500 and sync the engine timing to the ecu timing that way also. So with correctly synced timing, if the datalogger says 20 degrees under boost, then thats what should be hopefully happening at the engine.