ENEOS oil: power adder or snake oil? - Page 4

95talonracer · 03-03-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhaan_dude

the only reason i would use Lucas is in a big "na" v6 or v8 because they need all the help they can get with upper cylinder lubrication...

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhaan_dude

but nobody has answered my real question yet...has anyone used the Lucas "synthetic oil" that I was talking about?

Actually all Lucas stuff is junk and a gimmick. The test they use with the weights to show lack of friction or whatever is a joke as well. If you don’t know how they do the test it is a arm that pivots that you put weights on one end and at the other end there are two contact points where the wheel that is spinning rubs against a stone and the Lucas added to any oil is supposed to make it not stop, sorry hard to explain. At a Lucas demonstration stand a group of us amsoil dealers took over a mysterious bottle of stuff and told him to add it to the oil and make it resist friction and it performed just as the Lucas additives did and he asked what it was, it was shampoo! It is all a joke.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracka

You are just wasting your money.

Dam right, they have a 15,000 mile extreme guarantee on their oil and filter.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSM_420

How long do you think you can legitally run AMSoil then? I replace the oil filter every oil change... and I never run an oil filter past 5k miles. So as long as I'm replacing that I might as well do the oil as well.

Amsoils new EAO## filter is a 25,000 mile normal, 15,000 extreme condition filter as is their oil so don’t waste your money. They have analysis kits too where you can have the oil analyzed to see if you need to change the filter, oil or both. The test also shows if you have things like carbon, coolant, or anything else in the oil.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSM_420

I could never let my self go 25k without changing the oil. Although I would hit the 1 year mark (where AMSoil suggest changing) before hitting 25k miles. I guess maybe this summer I will only need to change my oil once, since I put on less than 10k in a summer.

It is well worth it not only because you don’t have to change your oil as often and it is warranted but it is cheaper in the end.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSM_420

AMSoil and their filters are rated until 25k or 1 year, whatever comes first. I don't believe it has been rated for 15k for a couple of years now.

It is rated 25,000 miles normal driving conditions, and 15,000 miles under more extreme driving conditions like hammering on the gas and not being easy on the car all of the time.

DSM_421 · 03-03-2008

For a 4g63 it is a EAO21 right?

And your right, it is 15k for severe driving conditions, which all dsm's experiance. Especially since excessive idiling is part of the severe driving conditions, and you know you need to let the car idle so that turbo can cool down before you shut her down!

95talonracer · 03-03-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSM_420

For a 4g63 it is a EAO21 right?

Hold on ill check, u want for a 6 bolt like a 92?

DSM_421 · 03-03-2008

Yea, PM me about becoming a dealer too if you don't mind.

95talonracer · 03-03-2008

EAO21 for 6 bolt
EAO13 for 7 bolt

DSM_421 · 03-03-2008

The EAO21 is a lot bigger than the EAO13 too I believe.

And a bigger filter is better right?

95talonracer · 03-03-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSM_420

The EAO21 is a lot bigger than the EAO13 too I believe.

And a bigger filter is better right?

To a certain extent.

Jakey · 03-03-2008

Just an FYI that Amsoil's nanofiber filters are engineered and manufactured by Donaldson Filtration. The thing that I have always found interesting about Amsoil is that each time I have spoken with an Amsoil representative, he/she was more interested in signing me up for a dealership than selling me anything. You've got to love the pyramid structure.......right Swifty....?

gofastman · 03-04-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by JET

I tried the Amsoil tranny fluid in my DSM and it is pure shit. I actually changed it again 2 days later. I have run amsoil oil before and it seemed fine, but so does anything. I changed the t-case and rear end from amsoil to Redline and it was a little quieter.

IDK if it's just Mitsubishi trannys or what the story is but I agree 100%. I have tried both there gear oils they said were ok for mitsu trannys, 1st the synchromesh one than the other (dont remember the name) and shifting felt absolutely horrible in both cases, that stuff sucks ass IMHO.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBlizzard

I switched over to Amsoil; I use it for my cars, snowmobiles, 4 wheeler, snowblower, ect. Their 2 cycle injector oil is some good shit; it never fouls a plug or even blows smoke for that matter. Using they synthetic in my car I could definetly tell the difference on longevity and gas mileage. Hughes you have probably heard of this stuff, since the company is located in Superior Wisconsin. Its not cheap but who cares.

Amsoil Dominator 2 cycle oil is one of the worst products on the market, gums shit up quicker and more completely than anything else out there, Interceptor is good stuff though, again, IMHO.

**Kracka** · 03-04-2008

Evo and S2k guys also seems to hate the Amsoil GL-4 tranny fluid. IMO, stick with Redline MTL/MT-90; I've tried a lot of fluids and have never found any better.

jhaan_dude · 03-04-2008

btw gm synchromesh and amsoil syncromesh are the same thing if anyone was wondering

**Kracka** · 03-04-2008

GM Synchromesh should not be used in Mitsu (or most) manual transmissions! It sheers incredibly easy and although it may feel nice it is not protecting your components.

**v8klla** · 03-05-2008

From blackstone:
For eneos 0w-50
Aluminum:1
Chromium:0
Iron:1
Copper:0
Lead:0
Tin:0
Molybdenum:42
Nickel:0
Manganese:0
Silver:0
Titanium:0
Potassium:2
Boron:59
Silicon:3
Sodium:7
Calcium:1811
Magnesium:20
Phosphorus:662
Zinc:790
Barium:0

SuS @210*F: 85.2
Flashpoint *F: 425
TBN: 8.5

8.5 is pretty respectable from what I hear?

**Kracka** · 03-05-2008

Do you have more info regarding this analysis? The numbers above make it look like its unused oil...is this correct? We all know its good oil initially, but durability is the real question

TBN basically just says how much active additive package is left in the oil (simply, how much life the oil has left). I would consider 8.5 to be normal for a new gasoline-engine oil.

**v8klla** · 03-05-2008

Yeah I think that was new, snagged it from MNsubaru lol

**Kracka** · 03-05-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by v8klla

Yeah I think that was new, snagged it from MNsubaru lol

Its nice to know what we are starting with, now lets see how the stuff holds up to some abuse!

gofastman · 03-05-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhaan_dude

btw gm synchromesh and amsoil syncromesh are the same thing if anyone was wondering

I don't buy that for a second, evidence please.

**Kracka** · 03-05-2008

Quote:

Originally Posted by gofastman

I don't buy that for a second, evidence please.

I also highly doubt its true, but either way, both are bad choices for a Mitsu tranny.

jhaan_dude · 03-05-2008

i work for a express lube that buys from kath oil, and kath says when people order gm syncromesh, they send them a bucket of amsoil synchromesh with a gm wrapper, because thats what gm uses!!!

just ask a gm dealership...the only thing they actually market that amsoil cannot touch is the auto trak II automatic 4 wheel drive fluid!!!

but thank for the info about it...what would you all recommend???

**Kracka** · 03-05-2008

IMO, nothing beats the 2 quarts Redline MT-90/1 quart Redline MTL mix for a Mitsu tranny.