Shaky steerling when I hit the brakes?

91autoeclipse · 11-05-2006

I looked at everything from ball joint to tie rod and rotors, rack&pinion....

I can't seem to understand what would be wrong? when i hit the brakes and the steering would shake..

The Rack and pinion makes a "thong" noise and it does move back and forth when the steering wheel is locked. is there supposes to have to some play in the rack&pinion..

the tie rods move a little too and so are the lower ball joints.

rotors are fine...

so what do you guys think i whould replace?

any help would be great...

tsua

Matt D. · 11-05-2006

Your rotors are warped, no question. Don't screw around with getting them turned and go buy new ones.

**Kracka** · 11-05-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt D.

Your rotors are warped, no question. Don't screw around with getting the turned and go buy new ones.

Yup.

A//// Guy · 11-05-2006

Nothing wrong with turning rotors as long as their is material left and the disk is in spec still. If there isnt enough material left then replace them.

Pimpin Dsmstyle · 11-05-2006

turning rotors costs about the same as buying new rotors.

Now if you have aftermarket, that may not hold true.

Elementality158 · 11-05-2006

Yeah. Rotors for sure. Just get new ones.

Shane55113 · 11-06-2006

+1 for new rotors

Capinoy123 · 11-06-2006

Inless you work somewhere you can turn them yourself. Or know someone that can turn them for you.

A//// Guy · 11-06-2006

Umm where can you get new quality rotors for $15 each? Red Rooster turned all of mine I have had done and they do a great job.

Matt D. · 11-06-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by M/// Guy

Umm where can you get new quality rotors for $15 each? Red Rooster turned all of mine I have had done and they do a great job.

I just don't understand the point of putting a band aid on a problem. Turning a rotor doesn't magically straighten it out and make it perfect.

A//// Guy · 11-06-2006

Its not a band aid. They actually do straighten the rotor out by cutting the high parts past the low spots to make it perfectly flat. How do you think flywheel resurfacing works? Its the exact same process. So using a resurfaced flywheel is a bandaid then?

**Kracka** · 11-06-2006

Aslong as its a quality rotor like factory, Brembo, Powerslot, etc. then there is nothing wrong with turning it assuming the thickness is still within spec. I wouldn't bother turning a cheapie from a parts store though, they are junk to begin with and very cheaply replaced (the quality of rotors do make a huge difference in braking performance).

A//// Guy · 11-06-2006

Yes I do agree that turning a cheap aftermarket rotor is a waste because it will warp again much faster than a quality unit.

Matt D. · 11-06-2006

Quote:

Originally Posted by M/// Guy

Its not a band aid. They actually do straighten the rotor out by cutting the high parts past the low spots to make it perfectly flat. How do you think flywheel resurfacing works? Its the exact same process. So using a resurfaced flywheel is a bandaid then?

I have operated a lathe, I know how turning rotors is done. My point is that when you look a warped rotor the whole thing wobbles, not just the surfaces. A warped rotor that is turned down is just going to warp that much faster. There's also quite a bit more "meat" to a flywheel than a brake rotor, it's not going to warp to the extremity that a rotor would.

tim · 11-06-2006

I agree that you need to have the rotors either turned or replaced but I also think you should look into some front end repair.

If you have slop in your rod ends you should replace them, no questions asked. If you have movement in your rack and pinion you should take care of that too. If you let any of those parts go to long you are just asking for trouble.

As far as replacing or turning your rotors. Turn them if you have enough material left to do so. They arent going to 'warp' any faster then new ones, that is what the 'turn to' spec is there for. If not go to the parts store and buy a new pair. Dont buy the cheapest ones but something in the middle range is probably going to be the equivilant to anything you buy at the dealer.

Oh and for all of you e-mechanics. A rotor with .005" runout is considered out of spec to most manufacturers but will hardly be noticable in the pedal. When you feel your wheel shake after hitting the pedal you are more than likely experiencing 'disk thickness variation.' You can feel DTV if there is as much as .002" variation when measuring thickness in different spots.

91autoeclipse · 11-07-2006

Many techs say if the rotors are warped.. The brake pedal would pulse.. and no my brake pedal do not pulse at all..
Are you guys sure?... If it is the case, Checkers on Brooklyn blvd turn them both for $20.

Yes, it does sound like I have to replace my rack and pinion. It has some play to it, but only when I jack up the car and pull on the wheels.. When I drive it i don't feel any play or fade.
By looking at the Rack&pinion.. It looks like an 6 hour job.. So if someone can help me out, it'll be great..

please advise,
thank you,
tsua

tim · 11-07-2006

Can you see the rack move where it is attacjed to the car or what? If so, can you tighten it down? I havent heard of a DSM having problems with a loose rack.

Check both inner and outer rod ends, wheel bearings, and balljoints. It is much more likely that you have a problem there.

b00stcreep21 · 11-07-2006

You need rotors. /Thread

HiImBrian · 11-07-2006

Yes there is no doubt about it that you need new rotors. I'm still waiting for somebody to tell me where i can get new ones for cheap.

b00stcreep21 · 11-08-2006

You get what you pay for. You buy cheap rotors from napa/carquest/checker, but they are going to feel like cheap rotors no matter what