AWD dsm, rear wheel stuck...

[john]

I have a 1g AWD which hasn't been driven in a while. It is a manual if that matters. The rear pass wheel is stuck (doesn't want to turn). In my past experiences, all I have to do is force it (by pulling) and it will break loose. This is not the case.

I got the car running today and tried to "crack it loose" but couldn't. The car moved forward and backwards with the wheel turning but still has a lot of resistance. I am assuming it is the brake. Anyone had this problem before? Any ideas before I take it apart?

Thanks,
John

[EclipseGST]

PB Blaster and hammer...

Spray the E-brake cable and attaching points if it seems that the E-brake is still engaged. Maybe even tap on the hub while trying to spin the wheel. Sounds like the E-brake is just not disengaging.

[Matt D.]

I agree, sounds like the E-brake is stuck.

[Goat Blower]

Rear caliper, they go all the time on 1G's.

[john]

Thanks for the ideas. I am hoping I get time to pull it apart this weekend and look it over. Been a while since I drove a DSM.

[brando]

yea its a calliper. get a 2g/galant big brake kit and you'll be gold

[john]

Originally Posted by brando

yea its a calliper. get a 2g/galant big brake kit and you'll be gold

3 brakes are good enought for stopping right??? J/K Not really looking to upgrade. I just want to tune the car, maybe take it to the track, then sell it.

[john]

I finally took the wheel apart, removed the ebrake cable, and made the caliper come off. I didn't want to but after enough banging around, I got it off.

I couldn't find my C-clamp last night to test the caliper but is there any easy way for me to check the wheel bearing while the car is in the air?

I am pretty sure it isn't the case, just wondering if I can save some time by checking it before putting it back together, finding out it still won't roll, and taking it apart.

I am pretty sure it was the e-brake cable as the lever didn't have any tension and the brake light was lit on the dash. The caliper fighting me also points to the brake being stuck.

Assuming there is no easy way to check the wheel bearing, my plans are to compress the caliper and see if it will come back out (pressing the brake pedal). If it does, I will compress it and throw the the brake back on and hope it rolls. Any ideas/things I should check while it is apart?

Thanks,
John

[MustGoFaster]

Just grab the hub and spin it. It will offer some resistance with the rear LSD, but you should be able to spin it with two hands on the hub. Also, try moving it up/down/in/out/front/back. If it moves more than just a little bit, it's probablely bad or going bad.

[john]

Thanks, I will check that. I figured it wouldn't turn as the other rear wheel was on the ground.

I am pretty much just trying to find out if the wheel bearing is locked up as the wheel wouldn't turn before. I couldn't break it loose while forcing it to turn with the car/motor. It would have to be totally rusted together to be the wheel bearing. Not as likely but possible as it hasn't moved in 2 years.

Thanks

[cmspaz]

The last time I had to compress a caliper, I used a breaker bar for leverage, and that worked fine, but it just took time.

[JET]

Yeah, sounds like a bad caliper. I seriously doubt the rear wheel bearing is bad, they start groaning and grinding before they go.

[iceminion]

1G rear wheel bearings are designed very well, I have never even heard of one going bad, front wheel bearing failures are more common, that is just because people don't torque the axle nuts properly, which results in failure.

I personally HATE the 1G rear brake setup, ideally I would get two small calipers, one for the normal brake, another for e-brake, this would involve a hydraulic e-brake, but who cares re-maned stockers for now.

[Goat Blower]

I'm looking forward to replacing my rear brakes with something a lot better, like EVO calipers all around. :-)

[john]

Update: The other day I took it all apart and tested the rear caliper by 1) pressing the brake pedal, and 2) turning the piston back in.

The piston moved out and it did screw back in so I am going to give it a try. I started the car, fired right up but had an oil leak by the front case (above/near oil filter sender??).

It was my brother's car and he said it wasn't like that before so I will have to check it over.

As far as the brakes go, if I continue to have problems I will just replace the caliper.

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

Originally Posted by cmspaz

The last time I had to compress a caliper, I used a breaker bar for leverage, and that worked fine, but it just took time.

You can't do that on 1g rear brakes. The ebake compresses the piston in the caliper manually, so you need to screw it back in which means unless you can manage it with a screwdriver, you need a special tool to do it.

[john]

Originally Posted by Kevin_1G_Drummer

You can't do that on 1g rear brakes. The ebake compresses the piston in the caliper manually, so you need to screw it back in which means unless you can manage it with a screwdriver, you need a special tool to do it.

I used a needle nose pliers to screw it back in.

[Febo]

If it gives you problems again sometims the guide pins are just rusted and corroded to hell and back. Some grease tends to make the brakes work again.

[john]

Ok, Update. Last time I had it apart I took the caliper off, compressed the piston, disconnected the E-brake cable, and put it back together. Pressed the brake a bit, car wouldn't roll again.

Fast forward a half a year, I need to move the car. Take the brake apart, remove the pads, car rolls back and out of the garage no prob. Go to push the car forward and nothing. Take the caliper off, still nothing. Car rolls backwards fine however.

We moved it back several time and pushed hard forward and the tire would lockup and skid on the pavement. finally the thing broke loose and seems to roll fine (for now). No plans of driving it now but any idea what the issue was? I want to fix this before I have it next time.

Whatever it was, the car could drive with the wheel locked up and not break loose. Figured that would stop any possible rust issue but maybe not.

Thanks,
John

[slowbubblecar]

That car was a PITA to move. Should have just fired it up and drove it on the trailer.