ARP and rod bolt questions

**asshanson** · 04-02-2009

I read a few threads on how to install ARP headstuds, but I wanted to make sure I have the procedure correct. When I took the head off 4 of the studs came out with the nuts.

Clean out holes in block (how?)
Optionally use blue loc tite on head side of studs
Finger tighten only
Use moly lube on washers and nuts

What order should I torque them, and in what increments? This is on a stock composite headgasket.

Also, how tight should the rod bolts be?

4g63tcrazy · 04-02-2009

Clean out the holes with a Q-tip. It will take quite a few of them by the time you're all done so have plenty with you.

Put studs in block finger tight. Bottom it out and thread it back up and down a few times to ensure it sits good.

Put head on, lube up washer's with moly lube and put them on the stud. Some may be a bit difficult cause the valve springs are in the way. If you use a flat screw driver you can push it down.

Moly lube the threads on the nuts and hand snug them down.

First torque to 30ft-lbs in the proper sequence

Next to 60ft-lbs in the proper sequence

Then to 75ft-lbs in proper sequence

Lastly torque them to you're final torque spec. ARP calls for 80ft-lbs with moly lube.

Super Bleeder!! · 04-02-2009

I used red-loctite on the end of the stud that threads into the block.

Yes i know its against the ARP instructions, but i read of many cases of studs threading back out of the block and i wanted extra insurance!

on thate note i also used Nordlock washers and 3sgte ARP bolts on my flywheel haha

**asshanson** · 04-02-2009

80 seems low, I thought a lot of people did 90-100 range, but I'm probably wrong. Does it depend on the power you want to make? Or the type of headgasket you're using?

Also what is the proper sequence (6 bolt if that matters)?

Super Bleeder!! · 04-02-2009

You dont have a manual? SHEESH.

http://www.lilevo.com/mirage/

**asshanson** · 04-02-2009

Thanks for the link.

I got everything used, no manuals whatsoever. Not even for the car... I should probably get one.

Kevin 1G Drummer · 04-02-2009

One thing, don't use any loctite on the head side of the studs. Moly lube is all you need for those. When I did the headgasket in my car I used a Mitsu composite gasket with copper spray and torqued it to 95 lbft. With a MLS gasket you probably wanna stay around 85-90. Also, when I assembled my motor I used red loctite on the block side and when I did the gasket, they wouldn't come out, so it's not likely they will ever back out of the block.

Mwolf83 · 04-02-2009

Quote:

Originally Posted by asshanson

80 seems low, I thought a lot of people did 90-100 range, but I'm probably wrong. Does it depend on the power you want to make? Or the type of headgasket you're using?

Also what is the proper sequence (6 bolt if that matters)?

80 does seem low, but its not. When using the moly lube you dont have to torque it as hard to get the same amount of turning on the nut.

4g63tcrazy · 04-02-2009

Yeah it is 80. Although with mine I went to 85. Then 90 the second time I took the head off. If you bought them used you should find out what they were torqued at and go a little above that when you put them in.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 04-02-2009

If you go too high with the tq, then you are just stretching the stud and making it weaker/put less clamping force down.