09-23-2004
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#1
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Blaine
Posts: 2,789
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Well,
i'm thinking of how to limit the weight transfer more on the fwd cars.
I was thinking making like two rods in the rear suspension to make it solid. so like i can bolt it in place of the shock? and the rear of the car would be higher than normal?
The only setback to that is that i'd have to keep swaping the rear suspension every time i'd go to the track, which is not that often anyways..
what do you guys think?
which also means i would have to get a new shock tower collar and a shock that i can weld to it..
-E
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09-23-2004
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#2
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Shit Rocket Pilot
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Shoreview, MN
Drives: 2003 Evolution VIII
Posts: 7,752
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Solid rear suspension is a bit extreme... You want a little give back there. I'd suggest just getting adjustable shocks. The Teins that are on display at Propulshun get pretty damn stiff at their highest setting.
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"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough." -Mario Andretti
03 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution VIII
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tachyon
Every minute you spend in your Evo, not in boost, is a minute of your life you'll never get back.
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09-23-2004
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#3
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Blaine
Posts: 2,789
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i currently have Tokico's 5 way adjustables.
-E
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09-23-2004
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#4
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aka Goodbye
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Get coil-overs and set the rears as high as they'll go and the fronts as low as possible without the tires rubbing and set all four shocks at full firm. Or if you wanted to do it on the cheap, just pick up some coil spring spacers that twist in between the coils. We used to buy them back in the day when jacking up your Chevy was cool.
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2009 Corvette Z51-SOLD
1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX-SOLD
2013 BMW Z4-Current summer hooptie
2017 GMC Yukon-Current winter hooptie
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09-23-2004
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#5
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Big Lake MN
Drives: 98 Eclipse GSX Auto
Posts: 1,516
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AIR BAGS. you can go from street to strip with a push of a button.
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09-23-2004
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#7
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Is funding Exxon.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ham Lake
Drives: like a bat outta hell!
Posts: 7,983
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I am with Carl, bag it. Takes very little time to do and still gives you some suspension. You are back to normal street settings in 20 seconds too.
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Is burning corn and stayin' warm!
My motorcycle is stock and reliable, my Talon is neither!
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09-24-2004
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#8
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formerly ecoli
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: On the dyno
Posts: 4,892
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Wheelie bars.
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09-26-2004
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#9
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Maplewood MN
Posts: 143
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I don't know if this is true or not but I have heard that with two much power and airbags you can blowout the airbags on the lauch. :3gears:
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Anyone know anyone with a GSX 2 Gen for sale with a manual?
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09-26-2004
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#10
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Captain J-Sack
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 594
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the bars might not be good on the body. ive heard of some hondas doing it in place of their coil over setup. but it just does not seem like a good idea.
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09-26-2004
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#11
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Mr. Me Too
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Albertville, MN
Drives: Suzuki GSXR
Posts: 999
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from what I understand, if the rear axl is solid the hole time, you could lose control you need some suspension, so make somthing that releases after the most weight transfer. you would not want to flip over right. :rally:
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Take her to the limit!
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09-26-2004
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#12
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back in the saddle again
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Quote:
Originally posted by ecoli@Sep 24 2004, 12:38 AM
Wheelie bars.
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I like this idea better .
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My street car runs low 11's and my race car's personal best is a mid 11....
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09-26-2004
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#13
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aka Goodbye
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Wheelie bars with hydraulic actuators for adjustable height on the fly. And a large set of airfoils in front of the car to keep the nose down at speed.
__________________
2009 Corvette Z51-SOLD
1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX-SOLD
2013 BMW Z4-Current summer hooptie
2017 GMC Yukon-Current winter hooptie
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09-27-2004
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#14
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R U DTF bro?
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oak Point, TX
Drives: C8 Stingray Z51
Posts: 20,620
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Coilovers or spring-blocks. I don't see wheelie bars being truely effective on FWD unless they are actually holding tension against the ground. When I ran at the track, I found my best settings on my AGX shocks were 8 (full hard) in the rear, and 3 (1-4, 4 being hardest) up front. I always had my coilovers set with a slight tilt forward to keep weight over the front tires.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlo26
I agree with Kracka.
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09-27-2004
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#16
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Blaine
Posts: 2,789
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2.4 best of beint 2.37 the 13.1 run
-E
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09-27-2004
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#17
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R U DTF bro?
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Oak Point, TX
Drives: C8 Stingray Z51
Posts: 20,620
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My 60's were generally right around 2.3 or so, mostly due to no traction. 17's are no good for drag-racing. Launching wasn't my strong-point either....very inconsisent.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlo26
I agree with Kracka.
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09-27-2004
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#18
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formerly ecoli
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: On the dyno
Posts: 4,892
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Quote:
Originally posted by TalonTSiDude@Sep 27 2004, 10:51 AM
Coilovers or spring-blocks. I don't see wheelie bars being truely effective on FWD unless they are actually holding tension against the ground. When I ran at the track, I found my best settings on my AGX shocks were 8 (full hard) in the rear, and 3 (1-4, 4 being hardest) up front. I always had my coilovers set with a slight tilt forward to keep weight over the front tires.
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Yea, you never see any of the full drag race FWDs with wheelie bars on them.
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09-27-2004
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#19
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Blaine
Posts: 2,789
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the hardest part is that actually i don't want to mess up the body in order to run the wheelie bars.. i would hate to have to take the bumper and all that stuff off every time. but if i have to i supose i will..
-E
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09-27-2004
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#20
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Is funding Exxon.
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Ham Lake
Drives: like a bat outta hell!
Posts: 7,983
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Check out Smithoid's car. He has 2 round holes in the back bumper to mount his wheelie bars. It is not very noticeable at all, especially on a black car. Bagging it would be the easiest to do and could be used on the street too.
__________________
Is burning corn and stayin' warm!
My motorcycle is stock and reliable, my Talon is neither!
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