Leave the BS in w/o the belt?

snea · 12-26-2005

Would it do harm to our engines to remove the balance shaft belt without romoving the balance shaft???

turbo2086 · 12-26-2005

There are special eliminator kits out there. They are very inexpensive. That way you do the right way. You can check out buscher racing, slowboy racing, dsmparts.com, or many other dsm part sites that will have the kit.

Jakey · 12-26-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by turbo2086

That way you do the right way.

Question of the day: Is there one "right" solution in regards to dealing with balancer shafts?

turbo2086 · 12-26-2005

They make kits for a reason. Just cutting the belt IS NOT THE RIGHT WAY.

**JET** · 12-26-2005

This depends on which balance shaft you are talking about. There isn't a problem leaving the front one it with no belt, but the rear drives the oil pump too so it should have a kit used on it. The best way is to use a turned down stock balance shaft. I can do this and I believe LSE does also.

**Shane@DBPerformance** · 12-27-2005

There are 2 balance shafts. Only one of them is driven off the BS belt. So, if you just cut that belt, then one will still be spinning and the motor will probably vibrate quite badly. Running a turned down ballance shaft is good for keeping the same oil pressure, doing it for other reasons is debateable. The oil pump gear does not directly run the balance shaft, so there isn't tremendous sideloading on it. Most of the high HP guys have had no problems with stubby style shafts with the oiling groove, even at very high RPMs. There are cheap eliminator kits out there though that have stub shafts with no oiling groove though.

snea · 12-27-2005

OK, so I'm just going to run my stock belt setup, that was my question.

Thanks everyone.

niterydr · 12-27-2005

Quote:

Originally Posted by ecoli

There are 2 balance shafts. Only one of them is driven off the BS belt. So, if you just cut that belt, then one will still be spinning and the motor will probably vibrate quite badly. Running a turned down ballance shaft is good for keeping the same oil pressure, doing it for other reasons is debateable. The oil pump gear does not directly run the balance shaft, so there isn't tremendous sideloading on it. Most of the high HP guys have had no problems with stubby style shafts with the oiling groove, even at very high RPMs. There are cheap eliminator kits out there though that have stub shafts with no oiling groove though.

It just likes to drive one of the oil pump gears that sometimes turns inside the oil pump housing. It is a hit or miss problem.
We offer the turned down balance shafts. Mike at QPR had a critical mistake in his original design. A few members on here have run into the problems his design has created. Our balance shafts aren't turned down that far. This will eliminate the chances of having them bend during the machining process (QPR had a few balance shafts come back bent), or having it bend during extreme over-rev conditions (something that is possible due to the lack of "meat" on the b-shaft). We are now just having the counterweights cut down.
The stub shaft also works very well, it is really just a personal choice, thats why we offer both. Both methods work extremely well, if done correctly. Just simply cutting one of the belts is not the correct way to eliminate them.