my new project

[Halon]

I've never used one first-hand, so couldn't speak on any sort of actual RPM increase. I think they are in the 300-400 dollar range.

Check out youtube videos of Sound Performance Supra's, they have some where they compare with and without QSV dyno charts.

Flopster, I think you figured it out on your own But if anyone else is still confused, yes you reduce the "A" by blocking off one of the scrolls. So if you're A/R was .90 (90/100), and you block off one port, you would have reduced the A (90) to a lower number say 50. So your A/R is now .50 (50/100). I am not a mechanical/math master, so I don't know if it's exactly cut in half or what. But it is significantly reduced.

[4seasons69]

Originally Posted by Halon

Are you going divided?

I just checked my manifold is already divided so I think a QSV is out

Originally Posted by goodhart

If gases only go through one scroll vs. two it would effectively cut the A/R in half would it not?

Edit, FP is having Holiday sales on their BB 3788 ($1700), BB 3794 ($1700, JB 4294 ($1500), and JB 4205 ($1500) turbos. All are T4.

Ball bearing

Journal bearing

Idk how I missed this but I think the jb hta4294 would be a good realistic option too. If I had the funds right now that bb3794 would be a real option too that's a good deal!

[4seasons69]

Here's a little update. On the engine I have basically everything I can assemble right now minus the manifolds. And still waiting on funds to have the cams degreed and get the couple parts needed to put her back in.

I was feeling kind of ambitious today so instead of buying a full blown pump hanger I decided to rewire mine with 10g wire. I got the stock plastic plug where the stock wires go into the sender out and drilled it bigger then ran then 10g wire in and jb welded it closed. This should help a lot with the voltage drop to the pumps almost all the crimp connectors in the tank were loose and it was 14g wire in the tank. I used crimp connectors to connect them to the pumps but I also soldered them so they can't loosen up. It will also get rid of the multiple connections coming in and out of the sender as well as using the rusty sender as a ground. There are also multiple wire size changes coming into and out of the fuel pump relay. I will be rewiring all of that too so there is a good clean power supply to the pumps.

[URV8SUX]

Originally Posted by 4seasons69

Idk how I missed this but I think the jb hta4294 would be a good realistic option too. If I had the funds right now that bb3794 would be a real option too that's a good deal!

Holy fuck you do know there 67mm that flow more and cost a lot less?

[4seasons69]

I

Originally Posted by URV8SUX

Holy fuck you do know there 67mm that flow more and cost a lot less?

Yes I do but the car already had a gt4294 on it so something like fp's jb hta4294 (which is a billet 67mm 4294) will bolt right up and work with my intake and exhaust. If I go with something like a pte jb cea6766 sure it's cheaper at around 1100 bucks but then I will have to have a new intake and exhaust made so in the end it will still probably be around 1500

[4seasons69]

I put some new strainers on the pumps and got the sending unit installed and rewired the relay to day. I just need some eyelets so I can finish the grounds for the pumps. It's all cleaned up now. Unfortunately I forgot to take before pictures

[URV8SUX]

Originally Posted by 4seasons69

I

Yes I do but the car already had a gt4294 on it so something like fp's jb hta4294 (which is a billet 67mm 4294) will bolt right up and work with my intake and exhaust. If I go with something like a pte jb cea6766 sure it's cheaper at around 1100 bucks but then I will have to have a new intake and exhaust made so in the end it will still probably be around 1500

I was not talking about the pte 6766 but it does flow more.

If you want something that bolts right up have you thought about sending your turbo to pte and getting the 72mm billet wheel put on it?

[4seasons69]

Originally Posted by URV8SUX

I was not talking about the pte 6766 but it does flow more.

If you want something that bolts right up have you thought about sending your turbo to pte and getting the 72mm billet wheel put on it?

I was just using that as an example. As for the 72mm billet wheel I have not thought about that. The problem with my turbo is the exhaust wheel is chewed up and that wheel alone is like $500 so with what it will cost too fix mine I would rather explore possible better choices. I've been trying to find as many options as I can so I've you have any suggestions I would love to hear them.

[4seasons69]

Here's a little update. I was finally able to order the new clutch disks and am having the cams degreed this weekend or sometime next week. So i will finally be able to install this engine in the car. I'm getting excited lol